Standard rose: growing and care
Content
Description
A rose on a stem is the result of several grafts, a union of rose hips and varietal roses, sometimes several. Rosehip is usually used for the main stock; it has a very strong root system. The stem, that is, the trunk, may be the result of grafting another variety of rose hips or, as it often happens now, canina roses. Rosa canina has a fairly strong root system, good resistance to frost and diseases, therefore, nurseries in the central part of Russia use it for the main rootstock instead of rose hips. At a certain height (50, 70, 100 cm), a varietal rose is grafted to the stem, usually two grafts are made, less often three. It happens that roses of different colors are planted.
Hybrid tea and floribunda varieties are the least common on the stem, because it is difficult to form a beautiful "bouquet" of them, their powerful shoots grow upward, and often become leafless at the base. The easiest to form and always look decorative climbing and ground cover roses, their shoots are flexible enough, perfectly formed in the right direction.
Standard roses bloom a little earlier than everyone else, bloom profusely and for a long time, in the fall, using special techniques, you have to remind them that the winter period of rest will soon come. They require more attention not even because it is more difficult to care for them, since each such rose, being almost at eye level of the viewer, attracts much more attention to itself than those flowers that are located below.
The slightest flaw in the bark of the trunk, dry leaves, withered flowers, broken branches of the crown - everything is striking. But thanks to this, it is easier to notice the first signs of illness or parasite damage.
Landing video
From the video you will learn how to plant this bush correctly.
Selection of seedlings
Of course, it is better to buy seedlings in nurseries or stores with a proven reputation, it is desirable that the nursery itself is not far away, then you can count on good survival rate, taking into account climatic conditions. The high cost of seedlings is explained by the long and hard work carried out before the sale. If we buy ordinary varietal roses at the age of one or two years, then a seedling on a trunk, ready for transplantation and flowering, can be four or five years old. Moreover, during this time he was vaccinated at least twice. Before buying, you need to find out what served as the stock, what species and variety (or what varieties) were planted. This is important for the further care and formation of the plant crown.
When choosing a seedling, you need to consider its crown, stem and roots, if they are open. All parts of the plant should appear healthy and strong.Strong, well-developed roots should not be lethargic or dry, there should be no spots or irregularities on the stem, the branched crown should consist of lignified shoots at the base.
Since roses on boles are very sensitive to moisture loss, it is better to buy seedlings in containers, although you cannot inspect the roots. The container should be at least 25 cm, the soil should be clean, free of weeds or moss, moist, but free of the slightest signs of mold.
Landing
When choosing a place for planting, you already need to think about how to cover a standard rose for the winter, because the crown will have to be tilted and laid on the ground (ideal), which means that there should be no structure, no bush or tree, no concrete paths. For the rest, the place is chosen, as for all roses - light, protected from the north wind, on a flat area or a hillock. You need clay soil with compost, humus and peat, slightly acidic.
The main thing is to find the right place, and the soil can be prepared before planting. If roses have already grown in this place, then it is worth changing the soil layer, up to 70 cm thick, so as not to provoke diseases and not to please the parasites that have settled in the ground. A good place does not have to be in the middle of the lawn at all, the trunks grow well among other ornamental or fruit crops, they are planted in flower beds. The crown towering above the ground usually gets more sunlight even in the light partial shade of trees.The best time is the end of April or the beginning of May, but seedlings from containers take root without problems even in the middle of summer.
Planting is carried out traditionally - a pit is prepared, larger in volume than the container, the earth is mixed with fertilizers, the seedling is lowered into the hole, covered with earth, trampled on the ground, watered abundantly. Some advise you to first pour a bucket of water into the hole, and then lower the roots of the seedling and sprinkle them with earth. In the absence of an earthen coma, care must be taken so that the roots do not intertwine and do not bend. At the end of falling asleep and tamping the earth, the seedling still needs to be watered. But it is very important not to forget a few points: before planting, a strong stake is hammered, to which a rose will then be tied, the plant is positioned so that the bend of the root collar (root cone, as it is sometimes called) is on the opposite side of the future inclination of the trunk, meaning the covering of the rose for the winter.
Some growers plant the plant at an angle, leave it there for two weeks, and only then tie it to a support. Even the roots are advised to direct not just down, but slightly to the side, continuing the inclination of the trunk. But after a while, the root system will still level out, although for the first two years this can help tilt the trunk towards the ground. For the same purpose, it is advised to divide the roots into two parts when planting and spread them apart so that the trunk fits like a person sitting on a twine. After a few years, the root system will recover from surprise, and all the roots will go the way they always do. But for several years, you can make it easier for yourself by this autumn laying of a rose on the ground.
It is not necessary to deepen the root collar during planting. But be sure to do another procedure, which is never done when planting bush roses. Moss, cotton wool or just a newspaper must be moistened abundantly with water, wrap the crown with them, and put a plastic bag on top. This is done in order to protect the plant from moisture loss until the roots begin to function normally in the new place. Such a "mask" is kept for up to two weeks, removing and checking the condition of the crown every few days, and then moisturizing it again. The beginning of bud development will show that the roots have taken root, and the crown can be freed. It is better to do this on a cloudy day or in the evening, so that the sun does not burn the fabrics weakened from the light.
Care
Care includes watering, feeding, pruning, weeding and loosening the soil, preventing diseases, protecting against pests, preparing for winter. It is better to water abundantly and infrequently, the schedule depends on the weather and soil conditions. Fertilization can be traditionally root and foliar. Until mid-summer, nitrogen fertilizers should prevail, and then they are excluded so as not to provoke the plant to grow late, but more potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied, which will give the rose more strength and even help to winter.
From the roots and on the stem below the grafting, wild growth often appears, which must be fought against. If a rose is grafted onto a rose hip, then a wild shoot can grow half a meter in a week. It is worth cutting them off as they appear, otherwise they will weaken the rose, and may even destroy the varietal graft. Wild shoots are usually thorny with small, seven-part leaves, they have a truly immense strength, so it is best not to let them grow.
Weeds should not be allowed to grow in the near-stem circle of the rose, it is often mulched with decorative pebbles or bark, and it happens that ground cover plants are planted there. Roses on boles rarely get sick, but one must not forget about prevention, therefore they must be sprayed in spring and autumn before wintering with iron vitriol or Bordeaux liquid, in the summer they also sometimes treat the crown with special preparations. Be sure to monitor the state of the crown throughout the season, remove dry leaves, withered flowers, extra shoots.
Pruning
The main pruning is carried out in the spring, it is aimed at forming a beautiful crown. Shoots are cut according to the requirements of the variety grafted onto the stem. But hybrid tea varieties, miniature roses and floribunda are recommended to be cut less than spray ones, it is advisable to leave them not 2 - 4 buds, as usual, but at least 6. Strong pruning of bush roses is done so that powerful tall shoots grow, this is not necessary on the trunk.
From climbing roses, last year's shoots are removed, which have already faded, but if there are few replacement shoots, then last year's are not cut out, but only shortened. In ground cover roses, too, they usually only shorten the shoots.
All pruning should be carried out half a centimeter above a healthy kidney, leave an even cut, process it with garden varnish (if it is more than 1 cm) or at least wood ash. The tool must be used very sharp in order to less injure the rosette, disinfect it before and during the cutting process.
Shelter for the winter
In Europe, standard roses are considered frost-resistant, in mild climates they are not covered at all, and where there is real winter, flower growers simply wrap the crown. We cannot afford that. Our severe frosts and extreme temperature fluctuations can kill plants. Therefore, roses need to prepare a real shelter for the winter, and the crown will have to be laid on the ground. The most hassle is with this horizontal styling. Young plants, planted correctly, can still be gently tilted to the ground, but this becomes more difficult with age.
With the arrival of September, you can gradually reduce watering to zero, then cut off the leaves and unblown buds. In October, it is already necessary to carry out autumn pruning in order to remove all unripe shoots, shorten all the remaining ones, remove all the foliage. After that, the crown is treated with iron vitriol, allowed to dry, then tied with a rope for compactness. The stem is laid on the ground, often for this you have to dig in the roots. The crown is placed on spruce branches, sprinkled with dry leaves (good oak), then spruce branches again. From above, the crown is covered with lutrasil or spunbond, leaving room for airing. If the grafting point does not lie on the spruce branches, you need to substitute a support under it, it can be polystyrene or plastic bottles, the main thing is that it does not hang in the air.The roots are covered with earth and sand, the stem is wrapped in lutrasil, then the whole plant is covered with lutrasil, pressing it along the perimeter with stones or boards for weight. During the rains, you can cover all this with foil. With the onset of real frosts, the film is removed, the lutrasil is completely closed over the crown.
Plants up to 50 cm in height can not be bent down. A roofing material pipe is installed around them, filled with dry leaves. From below they spud this structure with earth, and from above they cover it with lutrasil.
Reproduction
Roses on boles are not propagated in the usual sense of the word, they are created by grafting. First, a fairly strong plant with a long, even stem is grown, usually a dog rose, it is grown for 4 to 5 years, forming so as to achieve a one-year shoot with a thickness of at least 1 cm, which branches out at a height of one and a half to two meters. Often for this, one species or variety of rose hips is grafted onto another. Then, below the top of 40 centimeters, budding is carried out, that is, the desired variety of rose is inoculated with an "eye". Usually two "eyes" are inoculated, on opposite sides of the shoot, so that the crown of the future rose is lush and branched. The next year, shoots grow from them, which are formed by pinching. After another year, the plant can be considered formed.
Video "Shelter for the winter"
From the video you will learn how to properly cover these bushes.