Reproduction of roses by cuttings in the garden

How to grow at home

Reproduction of roses by cuttings is not difficult at all, almost every branch of a rose can serve as a material. Semi-lignified shoots take root best of all, young, unripe twigs and completely lignified ones with thick, strong bark should not be taken. The best time to root cuttings of roses begins with the formation of the bud and ends with the fall of the petals, or rather, it is at this time that the cuttings should be cut. Before flowering, the plant has not yet accumulated enough strength, the shoots have not matured, and after flowering it is already preparing for the dormant period, activity decreases, so growing roses from cuttings is best done in summer, although cuttings are often taken when pruning bushes in autumn.

A stalk is a piece of shoot, usually 12 - 15 cm long, but sometimes up to 30 cm long, with 2 - 3 active axillary buds, from which new shoots can grow.

There are many opinions on how to plant roses with cuttings, but first you need to prepare the cuttings. They are cut from the middle of the branch, it is better not to take the tops, as they are not fully formed, and the base of the shoots is usually too thick, and there are almost no active buds on them. The lower cut is made immediately under the kidney with an inclination of 45 degrees, and the upper cut is 0.5 cm above the upper kidney. All the leaves and thorns are removed at the bottom, the upper leaves are shortened by a third. You need to cut with a sharp, clean tool - a pruner or a knife with a disinfected blade, so as to injure the stalk as little as possible and not introduce pathogens. The upper cut is recommended to be treated with potassium permanganate or paraffin, and the lower cut into a growth stimulant solution ("Kornevin" or similar).

Some gardeners soak cuttings in water or a growth stimulant for 24 hours to speed up the rooting of roses. Roses are planted at home all year round, but it is best to do this in spring or summer. There can be many answers to the question of how to root a rose stalk. Some root cuttings of roses in water, others in a pot of peat or soil, others fill a container with vermiculite, perlite or coconut fiber, and still others plant it in a garden bed and cover it with a jar. How to grow roses from cuttings correctly, each grower decides for himself. How to root a rose is easiest to find out only empirically. For example, growing roses with cuttings at home works great right in a pot on a windowsill, if it concerns a miniature indoor rose, and climbing varieties wonderfully root in a flower bed under a jar.

How to grow a rose from a cutting? Very simple.You need to take a good cutting, plant it in loose nutrient soil, moisten it and maintain the desired temperature. Taking care of rose cuttings is simple - periodically check them, water them and wait for the roots to appear. Flowers propagated by cuttings do not produce root growth, which makes it easier to care for them. In addition, they do not degenerate into rose hips. This largely explains the interest in the question of how to propagate roses using cuttings.

Video "Pros and cons of growing flowers by cuttings"

From the video you will learn how an experienced gardener grew a rose.

How to plant a rose from a bouquet

You can breed the most amazing varieties in your garden if you take cuttings from a bouquet of donated roses. This works best with local flowers, Dutch ones often take root worse precisely because they are treated with a special agent that prolongs the flowering time, it slows down all processes, and therefore the process of root formation. But this does not matter, it takes a little experience and patience, the most exotic varieties can be rooted. Another trick may lie in wait for the florist - the bouquet may not contain pure varieties, but hybrids that will not retain the characteristics of the mother plant in the offspring. Nothing can be done about this.

Cuttings are cut from the middle part of the stem, if it looks healthy, if the stem is lethargic or dented, then you don't have to try to learn how to root the cuttings on it. Having carefully studied the stem, you need to select a site with 2 or 3 promising buds, make an oblique cut under the lower one close to the bud, and retreat from the upper one by about 0.5 cm and cut off exactly.

Immediately, the upper cut is recommended to be treated with paraffin, wax, or dipped in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. After that, the lower leaves are removed, half or at least a third of the upper ones are cut off, the thorns are also removed. After that, one of the ways mentioned earlier is to grow roots.

To begin with, the cuttings are placed in a growth stimulant solution purchased from a store. It can be replaced with aloe juice. Experienced growers recommend leaving the cuttings in the stimulator for a day, and then planting them in the ground or putting them in water. The water should be settled, if it was taken from the tap, or boiled. There is one nuance: if you decide to put the twigs in boiled water, then you cannot change it later, you just need to add the same boiled water as much as you need, and do not be confused by its green color. Some people close the jar with a plastic bag without tying it.

New sprouts can develop from the upper bud - or even two - on a branch, usually their appearance indicates the germination of roots, but it is from them that new rose bushes can be grown. First, these sprouts are red, then they acquire a green color - at first pale, closer to yellowness, and then they darken, turn into real dark green twigs. Experienced growers suggest cutting off such a sprout with a blade, putting it immediately in a small bottle (for example, from a medicine), covering it with a bag and placing it under a fluorescent lamp. After two weeks, a light thickening will appear on the cut of the branch, and after another couple of weeks - the roots. Then such a sprout with roots is proposed to be planted in a pot, and only in the spring of next year, a sufficiently strong plant can be planted in a flower bed.

If you decide to root the cuttings in the soil, then you need to pour a drainage layer into the pot, then a nutritious loose earth, and on top - sand, about 2 cm thick.The cut should be placed with the edge on the border of sand and earth, roots develop more easily in the sand, and into the ground they will then sprout and receive nutrients. When planting several cuttings in one dish, the distance between them should be about 7 - 8 cm. They are covered with a jar or bag on top to create a greenhouse.

Under a jar or an impromptu greenhouse, you can root cuttings on the street, but you should not allow too high a temperature under the shelter, even adults do not like roses. If necessary, the twigs are ventilated and watered - that's the whole care.

Growing cuttings in potatoes

You can root the cuttings in potatoes, which will create the necessary nutritional conditions. To do this, take healthy strong solid potatoes without signs of lethargy, cut off the eyes, make an incision on one side and insert a stalk into it.

In the garden, in a quiet, fairly bright place, they dig a trench 20 centimeters deep and about 15. A layer of sand 5 cm thick is poured onto the bottom, moistened, potatoes with twigs are placed on top and all this is covered with earth. They arrange a greenhouse on top or close the cuttings with banks. Further, such unusual plantings are watered and wait for the appearance of new branches, which will show that the roots have already developed.

How to grow in the fall

When pruning rose bushes in autumn, you can prepare many cuttings that are unlikely to give roots at home or in a greenhouse without special supplementary lighting, and the life cycle of plants dictates the need for rest, not growth. They can be placed in the cellar until spring, and then planted and rooted, or they can be immediately planted in the ground and left there for the winter so that they take root in the spring. This is done in different ways.

Some growers recommend planting cuttings in the ground, cover with jars and leave so, covering with earth and spruce branches or sawdust. In the spring, with the arrival of heat, the covering material will need to be removed, and then rooting will proceed as usual.

Others suggest planting cuttings in a greenhouse or a special trench dug for them. It needs to be filled with compost and earth, plant cuttings, deepening by about 5 cm. From above they are covered by 20 centimeters with fallen leaves, hay, sawdust, that is, any material that can keep heat. Then this trench (or greenhouse) is covered with a film and pressed to the ground so as not to be blown away by the wind. In winter, it will be crushed by the snow and will preserve the cuttings. Moreover, under the film, the process of decay of foliage, hay or sawdust, which covered the plantings, will occur, which means that heat will be released. In the spring, after the snow melts, having removed the film, it will be possible to notice small light (in the absence of the sun) sprouts on our cuttings - this means that they have already released roots and continue to grow. They need to be mulched with a layer of 7-10 cm with sawdust, watered on top and already covered only from the cold, and you can put new plants in the sun. Here's how to grow roses even in fall or winter.

How to care

New plants, whether they are rooted cuttings or sprouts that have taken root, that have developed on them, are planted in open ground in late spring, when there is definitely no frost, when the sun is affectionate and generous, but not yet hot. The soil must be prepared loose and nutritious. Caring for them consists in moderate watering, sanitary pruning (if needed), dressing. They will need to be watered often and little by little, because the root system is not yet very developed and is close under the surface. It is advisable to use water at room temperature, pour it under the stem so that it gets on the roots, and not on the leaves.

Spring pruning is not needed for young roses. You can make fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, and later, in the summer, feed the young bushes with potassium-containing preparations. It is useful to mulch them with sawdust or hay, which will gradually turn into fertilizer. The task of leaving in the first year of life is to prepare the plants for wintering. Perhaps the only drawback of propagation by cuttings is that such beautiful and healthy bushes are still too weak and not adapted to the harsh winter. Therefore, you need to try to strengthen them, you cannot allow them to bloom, even if they only increase the green mass and the root system. This should be the focus of all first year care.

The bushes can be powdered with crushed wood ash, scattered around them. This will not only fertilize, but also prevent pests.

In the fall, they carry out sanitary pruning, slightly shorten the shoots and carefully cover the bushes for the winter. If they survive their first winter, then the next one will not be so scary for them. Cuttings usually develop strong and hardy roses that live long and bloom profusely.

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