Rules for planting and growing climbing roses

Description

Climbing roses are a type of garden roses, which are characterized by curling or creeping lashes several meters long. It is this feature of shoot growth that allows the use of plants in vertical gardening, for the design of small architectural forms: gazebos, arches and other decorative structures. This type of roses does not have a definite classification, but according to the nature of the growth of shoots, they are divided into three groups:

• climbing (the length of shoots is 3-5 m) - these roses are not prone to branching, they cling to the support on their own, but for proper growth they need to be guided, the shoots are powerful, covered with thorns, the leaves are hard, waxy, flowers can have a wide variety of sizes and external description: small to fairly large;
• semi-leafy (shoots 1.5-3 m) - ideal for a hedge, can be in the form of a compact shrub, or be located on a trunk;
• curly roses (lash length 5-15 m). This group is characterized by the continuous formation of new shoots, due to which the bush quickly grows green mass, and the flowering stretches for a period from 1 to 3 months.

Curly roses are particularly decorative, since they can braid a large area in a short time. Among this group, there are many remontant varieties that bloom several times per season.

All climbing roses begin to bloom in June, and end at different times: semi-climbing varieties bloom on average for 30 days, and curly ones - continuously from early June until autumn.

By the nature of flowering, roses can be divided into large-flowered (single buds) and multi-flowered (inflorescences). Large-flowered are characterized by a single bud opening and a long flowering period. Outwardly and in size, they resemble tea roses, they also smell good. Multi-flowered flowers are distinguished by their small size (2-3 cm in diameter), a large number of buds (5-20 pieces), collected in inflorescences, a weak, almost imperceptible aroma.

Video "The best varieties of roses"

From the video you will learn which varieties are best to choose for gardens, summer cottages, and so on.

Landing

Planting of climbing roses is carried out mainly in the spring, but in the southern regions, as well as in the middle lane, it is also possible in the autumn period, 1-1.5 months before the onset of frost. If the autumn is warm, then this time is quite enough for the plants to adapt and take root. The advantage of autumn planting is that immediately with the arrival of spring, the young bush will begin to actively grow along with the old bushes and, possibly, in June will even please with the first flowering.

Climbing rose prefers sunny, slightly windy and non-boggy areas. It is advisable to plant the bush at a small elevation, this will help to avoid stagnation of water in the soil, which is harmful to the rose. Since the roots of an adult plant reach a depth of 2 m, a planting site should be chosen with a groundwater level below this mark.It is recommended to plant bushes at a sufficient (1.5-2 m) distance from each other, since the lashes are able to curl in different directions and grow rapidly.

The optimal size of a planting hole for a rose is 50x50 cm - this is the depth and diameter, but it all depends on the variety. If the bush can grow voluminous, then the size should be increased to 60 cm. The ideal soil for a rose is loose loam with a layer of humus or other organic material. If the soil is not fertile enough, it is necessary to add peat, humus, phosphorus mixture to it. The site for planting is prepared in advance, and immediately before planting, the soil is dug up.

If the seedling was bought in a nursery, then it should be put in water for a couple of hours so that the roots are straightened. Next, the bush is placed vertically in the planting hole, so that the root collar, after falling asleep with earth, is buried by about 10 cm.After planting, the bush is watered, and the soil is covered with mulch (sawdust, chips, stone chips). If the plants are planted in autumn, they should be mulched with organic matter: humus, peat.

Growing

Climbing roses require a lot of attention, as well as some knowledge in this area. For them, proper planting and care is important, on which the beauty and splendor of the flowering of the bush depends. The first thing the plants need to do is to install supports on which they will trail. While the seedlings are young, they need to be regularly watered and loosened around the soil if there is no mulch. Adult plants especially need watering in extreme heat, however, periodic watering and sprinkling of the bush in the evening will have the most beneficial effect on flowering.

Climbing rose care also includes top dressing. During the beginning of the growing season and before wintering, mineral fertilizers are applied under the bush, special mixtures with humate for roses.

In summer, the bushes can be watered with an organic solution or compost can be dug into the tree trunk circle. To prevent the plants from being struck by fungal diseases, they are treated with insecticides twice a season: Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate. The same remedies are effective against such pests of roses as spider mites, aphids.

Roses are thermophilic plants, they can freeze even at a temperature of -10 ° C, so they should be covered in the middle lane for the winter. To do this, in late autumn, when the night temperature drops to -3-5 ° C, the lashes are removed from the supports, twisted, laid on the ground and sprinkled with a thick layer of organic mulch. In a harsh winter, a denser material (roofing material, agrofibre) can be put on top of the shelter.

Pruning

The formation of a bush is a very important event for weaving varieties of roses, which allows you to achieve a longer and more abundant flowering. In summer, climbing roses, which are cared for at a high level, grow on average 3-4 m, which leads to excessive thickening of the bush, so regular pruning also rejuvenates the plant and maintains it in a healthy state.

Roses are pruned in spring and autumn. In the spring, diseased and frozen shoots, as well as the tops of branches formed last year, are completely cut off. During the entire flowering period, faded buds are removed from the bush. This procedure not only improves the aesthetic appearance of the plant, but also has a sanitary purpose, because pests or pathogens can settle in dried or rotten buds.

During autumn pruning, all damaged, as well as unripe (weak, too thin) shoots of the current year are also removed, after which the lashes can be removed from the supports and covered for the winter. It is better to form bushes of climbing roses horizontally. This method promotes abundant flowering, while with vertical formation of branches, buds are formed only at the very top of the bush.

Reproduction

Climbing roses can be propagated in several ways:

• dividing the bush: the method is acceptable for semi-climbing roses, since it is very difficult to dig out and divide the bush of a climbing rose located on a support;
• cuttings: both summer (green) and woody shoots are used;
• layering.

Let us dwell in more detail on the last two methods. Cutting is the easiest and fastest way, moreover, green cuttings give almost one hundred percent guarantee of successful rooting. The cuttings should be cut in June, when the rose is in bloom. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45 ° from the bottom of the bud, the upper one at a right angle just above the bud, the leaves are removed from the cutting. Workpieces 15-20 cm long with 3-4 internodes are planted in a wet substrate (a mixture of earth and sand in equal proportions) and covered with jars (half a plastic bottle can be used). With regular watering, rooting of cuttings occurs in a month.

It is more convenient to propagate curly roses by root layers. To do this, separate the young lash growing at the root collar, dig a small groove under it (10-15 cm wide and deep), lay a thin layer of humus on the bottom, mix it with the soil, then lower the shoot into the recess, strengthen it in several places and sprinkle with earth. Before digging in the lash, small cuts should be made in the places under the buds to speed up the germination of the roots. By the fall, the shoot will take root, but it will be possible to transplant it only in the spring, and for the winter, the future rose must be covered with peat or humus so that the young roots do not freeze in winter.

Cultivation and Care Video

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