How to plant a rose from a cutting: an easy way

Cutting and soil preparation

There is nothing difficult in how to plant a rose from a cutting, you need to prepare the cutting, root it, plant it in a permanent place of growth and take good care of it. Those who go through all these stages will receive a prize - self-rooted roses are durable, unpretentious, do not give wild growth, which would have to be constantly fought, that is, they do not degenerate into rose hips. Propagation of a rose by cuttings allows you to preserve all the characteristics of the variety of the mother plant, with the exception of hybrids, which may be cut flowers. Almost all types of roses can be cuttings, but repair and park roses are the worst susceptible to cultivation in this way.

You can take and root cuttings during the growing season, or rather, from the moment the flower forms until the petals are completely shattered. This is the time of the greatest activity of all growth processes. But many growers prefer to acquire cuttings in the fall, when the bushes are pruned before sheltering for the winter. The point is not only in the abundance of material, but by autumn the shoots have accumulated the largest amount of nutrients that they will need for rooting and growth of new shoots.

Cuttings are small pieces of fairly mature semi-lignified shoots with 3 to 4 fully formed buds. Young or completely lignified shoots should not be taken, as are the tops of suitable branches.

It is better to take cuttings from the middle of adult shoots, 8-10 mm thick. They should be cut in this way - the upper cut is made even 0.5 - 0.8 mm above the kidney, and the lower one is oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees, right under the kidney. As a tool, you need to use a knife or pruner with a very sharp blade, which will not crush the twig, but will cut it off quickly with minimal losses. Before using it, it should be disinfected with alcohol and boiling water in order to exclude contamination of our planting material with pathogenic bacteria.

Many advise to treat the upper cut of the cutting with wax or paraffin, and lower the lower one into water with aloe juice or a purchased product to stimulate root growth. The lower leaves and thorns must be removed, and the upper leaves must be halved to reduce the area of ​​moisture evaporation. Rooting of cuttings can take place in water, soil, or even potatoes. The soil should be loose and not necessarily nutritious, root growth occurs due to the forces of the plant itself, concentrated in the cuttings and its buds, young roots must first grow, and only then learn to absorb nutrients from the environment.

If rooting takes place at home, then a drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay should be arranged in a pot or any other utensil, soil should be placed on it, and a layer of about 2 cm of pure river sand should be placed on top. Soil for roses can be bought in a store or made by yourself from turf soil, peat, sand.

Video "Planting by cuttings"

From the video you will learn how to prepare cuttings and how to root them.

Landing

How to properly plant a cutting depends on whether we want to root it in water, a pot, or directly in the ground outside. If you choose water, then it is worth taking a well, if there is such an opportunity, or at least a few hours standing. There is an opinion that the water in the dishes should not be changed, you can only top up as it evaporates, let it turn green and ugly, but the roots are more likely to form in it than in clean and always fresh. Many flower growers advise, based on their experience, to close the upper part of the shoots that rise from the dishes with a bag or transparent film to create a kind of greenhouse, and place this whole structure in a room with a temperature of +22 - +25 degrees, to the light. In the absence of the proper amount of sun, a fluorescent lamp will do.

After 2 - 3 weeks, callus forms on the lower ends of the branches - a light thickening, from which new roots will soon grow. Simultaneously with the formation of roots, new shoots can grow from the upper buds, at first they will be red, then gradually they will acquire a normal green color. Some break off these new shoots and root them, but so the process of forming a new bush will be postponed, more likely it will turn out if you plant a rooted cutting in the ground.

When rooting in a pot, the cutting is placed on the sand-soil boundary with a lower oblique cut. The sand will prevent the stem from rotting when the humidity rises, and the newly formed roots will be able to deepen further and take nutrients from the soil. Rooting conditions for all methods are almost the same - temperature is approximately +22 - +25, periodic spraying, light and cover from above to create a greenhouse effect.

The same conditions must be created when rooting on the street. A small semblance of a greenhouse is built on the garden bed, installing wire arcs, covering them with polyethylene. Or you can simply cover with glass jars or cut plastic bottles. Sometimes the plants need to be ventilated. On the street they will have to be shaded from the sun so as not to burn and not create too high a temperature under the shelter.

Potatoes are used for rooting cuttings because they create ideal conditions for moisture and nutrition. You just need to take absolutely healthy specimens without the slightest signs of rotting, cut out all the eyes, make shallow (up to 2 cm) holes, insert the lower edges of the cuttings into them. Two-thirds of the potatoes are covered with earth, and under them it is desirable to organize a sandy substrate 5 cm thick. Above, you also need to make a greenhouse shelter from plastic wrap or cut plastic bottles. If the cuttings in potatoes are rooted on the street, then a narrow trench is specially dug for them along the width of the potato plus another 5 cm, a layer of sand not thinner than 5 cm is poured down, all this is covered with soil, light and permeable. And the top is covered with polyethylene, shaded from too bright sun.

There is another way to get the roots, it is called "burrito", because the cuttings are wrapped in several layers of wet newspaper, like a flatbread filling in this Mexican dish.

The newspaper must be absolutely wet so that it can be wrung out like a rag, the cuttings are folded in a bunch, wrapped in an envelope so that nothing sticks out of the newspaper anywhere. Then the whole package is placed in a bag. It periodically needs to be unfolded, moistened with a newspaper, and the condition of the cuttings should be checked. If rot appears on any of them, it must be removed.New shoots that have penetrated the newspaper may testify to the appearance of roots. Once the roots have grown, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.

Disembarkation and care

A young rose, planted in a flowerbed in spring, will grow like any healthy plant. It is better to transfer it from room conditions in late spring, when the soil and air have warmed up enough, and there will definitely be no frost. At first, it will need to be covered from the sun, gradually accustoming it to it. After all, the place should be open, sunny, protected from the cold north wind, at a great distance from buildings and trees. It will need to be watered more often and more restrainedly than an adult bush, since the roots are still poorly developed and are close to the surface; in self-rooted plants, even in an adult state, they prefer to grow more to the sides than in depth. Melt or rainwater should not accumulate in this place; it is easier for a rose to tolerate drought than swampy conditions.

Until mid-summer, a young plant can be watered several times with a slurry solution using cow dung or poultry manure, although the use of horse manure shows the best results. Fertilizers specially selected for roses can be applied. Towards the end of summer and autumn, it is advisable to focus on potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, and exclude nitrogen fertilizers. You do not need to let the young bush bloom, the buds need to be pinched off as soon as they appear. Such care will help the plant to get stronger in the first year of life and it is easy to endure the dormant period in winter.

To plant rooted cuttings in late May or early July, you need to cut the cuttings from the bouquet presented on March 8, or root those that were cut in the fall. Brave and experienced flower growers plant rooted cuttings before winter. They are planted, like any seedlings, a month before frost, so that they have time to get used to a new place, to grow several thin roots in a new soil for themselves. Then they are well covered for the winter, it is better to build an air-dry shelter above them, using a frame, lutrasil, and cover them inside with hay or dry leaves. If a young plant survives its first winter, it will grow well next year, then it will turn into a healthy, unpretentious rose bush, adapted to the climatic conditions of its area.

If the cuttings are cut in the fall, you can try planting them directly in the ground in a permanent place of growth, try to root them even before frost, and then cover them well for the winter. Many gardeners do this. But this may not always work out, and the roots, if they have time to germinate, run the risk of freezing. They can be planted in a bucket or box, put in a cellar for the winter, where they will be perfectly preserved, and then transplanted to the garden in the spring for rooting. You can raise them in a warm room in early spring and start the rooting process, providing them with heat, light and moisture.

This method gives good results. The plastic bucket is filled with suitable soil, not forgetting to organize a drainage layer at the bottom of no thinner than 5 cm of pebbles or expanded clay. Sprinkle everything on top with clean disinfected (calcined) sand. With a clean wooden stick, they make recesses for the cuttings, lower the cuttings into them (before that, it is advisable to dip them in a root growth stimulator), press the sand around each with your fingers. The bucket is wrapped with foil so that a kind of pipe is formed - at the bottom it is firmly attached to the bucket (with an elastic band, rope or with glue, a stapler), and at the top it is closed, fastened with an ordinary clothespin. This bucket is placed in an unheated, bright room, like a loggia, while it is still cold, it is covered with warm materials (you can simply wrap it with a blanket) so that the temperature inside does not drop below +1 degrees. In such conditions, the cuttings will survive well until spring and will slowly take root.

Rooted cuttings can be planted in spring, early summer or autumn, the main thing is to create suitable conditions for them and surround them with the necessary care, help them survive their first winter on the street. This will certainly give good results, from them will grow, to the delight of the owners, healthy, strong, beautifully blooming rose bushes.

Video "Pros and cons of propagation by cuttings"

From the video you will learn the pros and cons of breeding bushes in this way.