How much garlic can you collect from a hundred square meters of land

Garlic yield

Garlic belongs to high-yielding agricultural crops - subject to planting rules and proper care, 100-150 kg of product can be grown on 1 hundred square meters, while planting a plot of one hundred square meters requires about 10 kg of planting material.

However, crop yield can depend on many factors, which we will discuss in detail below. But first of all, you need to name the following:

• Landing time. It is known that winter varieties provide a higher yield due to the greater weight of the heads, but summer (spring) varieties can be stored longer.
• A variety of culture. To increase yields, varieties with large heads, disease resistant and well preserved should be chosen.
• The climate of the region. Despite the fact that the teeth germinate even in cold soil, too harsh winters can lead to partial freezing of winter crops. At the same time, too warm climate contributes to the premature germination of cloves.
• Weather. If all the previous factors are easy to take into account and control, then you cannot argue with the weather. Very often, plants die because the summer was rainy or abnormally hot.

Naturally, by growing garlic bulbs for sale, each farmer expects to get the maximum yield from each hundred square meters. But before calculating how much useful product can be removed from one hundred square meters of land, analyze well whether the climate of your region is suitable for large-scale cultivation of garlic.

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How to get a rich harvest

Garlic does not belong to capricious crops, but to obtain a high and high-quality harvest, you need to take into account the peculiarities of its cultivation. First of all, it is necessary to create suitable conditions - to choose the right place, prepare the soil, select and process seeds for sowing. Further, you should strictly adhere to the rules of agricultural technology, as well as have time to harvest the harvest on time and save it.

Proper soil and garlic preparation for planting

Poor soil or improper preparation is one of the most common reasons why the yield of garlic per hundred square meters decreases.Thin shoots cannot break through hard and heavy soil, so the plants develop poorly, which, of course, affects the total amount of the crop. Whichever variety is planted, winter or summer, the planting bed must be prepared in advance.

A plot for winter varieties is dug up 2-4 weeks before sowing the tines, for summer varieties - from autumn, so that in April, as soon as the snow melts, seeds (tines) can be planted. The earth is dug to a depth of 20–30 cm, fertilizers are applied to it, and allowed to settle a little.

The place for the garden is crucial - the site for planting garlic cloves should be located in an open, well-lit place. It is important that the site is not in the lowlands, as water will accumulate on it, and this can lead to decay of the roots and death of plants.

Winter garlic grows best on loose sandy loam soils. During the digging, humus or compost 5 kg / 1 m², as well as superphosphate (30 g) and potassium salt (20 g) are introduced into the soil. If the soil is heavy, river sand is added to increase its drainage properties.

The acidity of the soil should be neutral. If the soil in your area is slightly acidic, add 1 cup / 1 m² of lime or dolomite chips in the same amount. A couple of days before planting the teeth, ammonium nitrate 10 g / 1 m² is introduced into the soil.

Sometimes solutions of salt or copper sulfate are used to disinfect the soil. It is believed that after such processing, garlic does not get sick and grows better. Disinfectant solutions are prepared in a proportion of 40 g vitriol per 10 liters of water, or 1 glass of salt per 1 bucket of water. The tool is watered abundantly on the ground about a week before planting.

The seed must also be prepared before planting in the ground. First, you should select the largest and healthiest heads, then divide them into separate teeth.

Spring garlic begins to be cooked about a month before sowing. To do this, the teeth are placed in the cold (refrigerator) for 2–3 weeks. Stratification (cooling process) contributes to the fact that getting into a humid and warm environment, the teeth begin to grow especially intensively.

Winter garlic does not need stratification - it only needs disinfection before planting. To disinfect the teeth, solutions of salt, vitriol or potassium permanganate are used. In a saline solution (3 tablespoons / 5 l of water), the seeds are kept for 2 minutes, in a solution of potassium permanganate - a couple of hours, in a solution of vitriol (1 spoon / 10 l of water) - no more than 1 minute.

After that, the teeth can be planted in the ground.

Sowing

Winter garlic is sown in late September - early October, when the soil cools down to 10–12 ° C. About 1.5 months remain before the onset of constant cold weather - this is enough time for the teeth to take root and germinate to a depth of 8–10 cm, but did not have time to sprout.

On a previously prepared bed, make longitudinal furrows 8–10 cm deep at a distance of 10–20 cm from each other. There are different planting schemes for winter varieties: single rows at a distance of 12-15 cm or double rows at a distance of 8 cm and 20 cm between rows.

Some growers sprinkle sand or ash on the bottom of the row to prevent premature tooth decay in case of a rainy fall.

If you are growing your garlic in dry, temperate climates, this procedure is not necessary.

Next, we go directly to the disembarkation. The teeth are buried vertically into the ground, with the bottom down - it is necessary to ensure that they do not tilt when sprinkling with earth. The distance between the large teeth is about 10 cm, between the middle ones - 8 cm. It is better not to use small specimens - they will lag behind in growth.

The teeth are deepened so that 4–5 cm remain to the soil surface. With a shallower planting, they can freeze out. Further, the furrows are covered with soil, compacted a little and cover the bed with a 2–3 cm layer of mulching organic material - peat, humus.

Spring garlic is sown in early spring one of the first - in early April, but not later than the first ten days of the month. Spring varieties thrive in cold soil and are even capable of germinating at a temperature of 6 ° C, so you should not be afraid that the teeth will freeze. Winter garlic at this time can be freed from mulch so that it does not sop.

Care

Garlic is easy to care for. In early spring, winter beds must be gently and shallowly loosened so as to only soften the crust, but not damage the plants that have not yet sprouted.

When the soil dries up, starting in May and throughout June, the seedlings may need watering. How much and when to water depends on the weather: if it is hot and dry, you can water every 3-4 days, if the weather is cloudy and cool - once every 7-10 days. In rainy weather, the beds are not watered. Watering completely stops 2-3 weeks before harvesting to allow the heads to dry out and ripen.

Arrows often form on winter garlic. They must be removed as they appear, since the size of the heads and, accordingly, the yield depends on this.

During the entire growing season, garlic is fed three times:

• when the first shoots appear - with a solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or watered with a liquid mullein at the root;
• after about 2 weeks, they are fed with nitroammophos (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), for winter plants it is useful to additionally add a little humus to the soil;
• spring varieties must be fed again before ripening with organic matter or phosphorus-potassium mixtures; for winter crops, this top dressing is not necessary.

It is important to calculate exactly how much fertilizer should be applied to each 1 m² of the garden, as excessive fertilizing harms the garlic: organic fertilizers lead to soil compaction and green mass build-up to the detriment of the bulbs, while mineral fertilizers affect the quality and taste of the bulbs.

Disease and pest control

Garlic is considered a disease-resistant crop because it contains many bioactive substances and esters that endow plants with high antiseptic properties. However, it sometimes happens that the leaves become covered with rusty spots, turn yellow, and become deformed. If the reason for this phenomenon is a lack of moisture and nutrients, then the problem is solved by watering and spraying with nutrient solutions.

But if the cause of plant disease lies in the defeat of fungal or any other microbial flora (powdery mildew, fusarios, bacteriosis, rot, mold), then treatment with medicinal preparations such as Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, Fitosporin cannot be avoided.

Very often, garlic beds are attacked by insects: onion moth, root and soil mites, caterpillars, nematodes. When insects or clutches of their eggs are found, the plants are treated with ash solutions or sprinkled with mixtures of ash and lime in a 1: 1 ratio, sand and naphthalene (10: 1) once a week. All procedures (spraying, watering) are carried out in the evening, when there is no sun, and only during the growing season before harvesting the beds are not watered with anything.

The main preventive measures are prolonged warming up of the teeth after digging, disinfecting them before planting and maintaining crop rotation. It is very important not to plant a crop for more than 2 years in a row in one place, and also carefully monitor who was the predecessor of garlic - many vegetable crops infect the soil with harmful microorganisms, which negatively affects growth and productivity.

Companion plants

Despite the fact that garlic itself is sometimes exposed to diseases and is eaten by insects, for neighboring plants it is a natural fungicide - a means to fight fungal infections. In addition, the garlic aroma is not to the taste of many insects, and the phytoncides secreted by the plant suppress the activity of pathogenic bacteria in the ground, thereby contributing to the health of the soil.

Garden beds with potatoes and tomatoes will benefit from the neighborhood with garlic, since Colorado beetles do not like its aroma. Next to it, these crops also suffer less from rust on the leaves and late blight. Planting garlic next to cabbage and strawberry beds will protect the plants from being eaten by caterpillars and snails.

Garlic will also be a useful neighbor for many other vegetables: carrots, cucumbers, any greens, leafy salads. It will rid them of annoying flies and fleas that often eat the ground part of vegetables. To get rid of insects, the teeth are planted even between bushes and rows.

Some berry bushes will be grateful to garlic for "partnership": currants, raspberries. It is noted that from such a neighborhood, these garden crops suffer less from aphids, which often eat their leaves. Of the flowers, gladioli, tulips, and especially roses feel great next to garlic. Near the antiseptic plant, their leaves do not become stained, but remain green all summer.

At first glance, it may seem that garlic is a real healer for neighboring plants. However, not for everyone. Not a single legume culture categorically coexists next to it. Peas, beans, lentils, beans grow poorly in the vicinity of garlic, practically do not bloom, which affects their yield.

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