Pear pruning - video instruction

Very often in our gardens you can find such a fruit tree as a pear. At the same time, such an issue as pruning pears is not always given due attention. Some do not see this as necessary, and some are afraid to take on this process, fearing harm to the tree. However, without pruning, the tree can be damaged even more. This article aims to highlight all the nuances of pear pruning.

Basic Rules

Most varieties of pears are not prone to excessive growth and the formation of new branches, but crown overgrowth still occurs, albeit not at such a rapid pace. And since this fruit crop is a light-loving species, pruning of pear trees is necessary. The tree undergoes this procedure from a very early age, and is periodically repeated until it dries out.

Pruning correctly has a number of valuable benefits:

• creating a solid skeletal base that will be able to withstand the load of massive fruits;
• rational, even distribution of nutrients throughout the pear, which will have a beneficial effect on the increase in yield and the development of the tree as a whole;
• sufficient space for access to sunlight;
• sufficient space for effective spraying;
• convenience in picking fruits.

Conversely, incorrect, irregular pruning can cause increased branch growth, which will drain the tree and adversely affect fruiting.

The basic rules for pruning pears can be summarized as follows:

• it is necessary to know the methods and types of this procedure in order to carry out the necessary pruning, depending on the goals and situation;
• acquire and prepare the necessary tools for work in advance;
• be knowledgeable in the basic aspects of technology.

Methods and types

For pruning pear trees, two methods are applicable:

• shortening. It involves cutting off the tops of branches and (or) annual growths. This method slows down the growth of the tree upward, favors horizontal branching, the frequency of fruit formation is somewhat reduced, but their quality increases.
• thinning. It implies the complete removal of branches and growth branches (“on the ring”, ie cutting off branches at their very base, near the trunk or the mother branch). Thinning gives greater access to sunlight inside the crown, which stimulates the growth of leaves, increases the volume and quality of the crop, and increases the pear's ability to protect against pests and diseases. This method does not stimulate the growth of the remaining branches and shoots, but leads to the formation of strong productive fruits (due to the redistribution of nutrients).

These methods are used in combination with additional techniques - tilt, garter, kerbovka, bending of shoots and branches, etc.

Also, depending on the purpose of pruning pear trees, there are several of its types:

• formative. The goal is to give the crown the necessary shape, to stimulate overgrowth with fruit wood. It is involved in the first years of growth of young pears, it involves cutting the minimum number of branches in the period preceding the onset of fruiting;
• supportive. The goal is to regulate the number of fruiting branches to maintain nutrient balance and stable fruit bearing. It works on mature trees that have entered the fruiting stage;
• anti-aging.The goal is to extend the fruiting period and life of the tree, to activate or resume the processes of the formation of high-quality fruits and growth. It works on old pears and trees that have lived for more than half of their life cycle.

Tools

To carry out effective pruning, you need an appropriate set of tools:

• secateurs;
• lopper;
• garden knife;
• saw on wood;
• scissors for gardening;
• garden pitch;
• paint based on natural drying oil (in the absence of varnish).

It should be remembered that all cutting and sawing tools must be properly sharpened. The cut should be flat, without crushed or torn fibers. Also, all tools, especially the blades, must be clean to avoid the possibility of contamination of the tree.

Technique and nuances

The technique of this process can be represented in the following diagram:

• the first pruning for a pear is designed to start forming its crown;
• at the height of the stem you have determined, a kidney is selected that grows in the plane of the row (catching starting point of reference, the so-called "first kidney");
• the next three buds from the first are removed to ensure free growth of the conductor and for the growth of branches at a more suitable angle;
• the fifth bud from the first is left for the development of the second branch (it is located on the side of the trunk opposite from the first bud in the plane of the row);
• the sixth to eighth kidney is removed;
• over the ninth bud, a cut of an annual shoot is made;
• when the pear reaches two years of age, the central conductor of the tree must prevail over the rest of the branches by at least 0.2 m (if necessary, for this, individual branches are shortened);
• skeletal branches are formed by shortening, tilting, bending;
• upon reaching the pear of four to five years of age, the central conductor is shortened to the base of the first (uppermost) skeletal branch;
• in the future, the center of the crown is kept open, preventing it from thickening;
• all shoots growing from the trunk at an acute angle or going to the center of the crown are removed;
• non-fruitful (top) branches and branches that grow parallel to the trunk are cut off;
• shorten the young growth by one third;
• the fruit, if possible, are not cut off.

Weather scheme for pruning pears

All stages of this process will be clearly visible in the video below.

There are also some nuances:

• if the pruning area is very large, then it is better to stretch it over several seasons;
• in addition to direct cutting with tools, you can use a self-cutting mechanism - the branch is pulled over with a flexible, not thin wire and, thanks to the growing wood, the constriction itself will cut the branch in a couple of years;
• when using a secateurs, it should be directed with a thin blade to the cut shoot;
• for quick healing, the branch must be cut "into a ring", without stumps, but also without deep cuts;
• do not allow the bark to be pulled up at the cuts (for this, first the branch is cut from the bottom, and only then - from the top);
• a large-sized branch must be removed in parts;
• the sections are covered with varnish or natural paint;
• after medium to heavy pruning, the tree does not need additional feeding, since he has plenty of free nutrients.

It is important not to forget: do not over-prune the pear in one approach, this will not only be great stress for the tree, but will also provoke the intensive growth of tops.

Video "Correct pear crown formation"

Timing

Pear pruning is carried out at different times, pursuing different goals and objectives. You just need to know the features of each season.

Spring pruning

In the spring, some of the most important parts of the work are carried out. Mainly during this period, weakly fertile branches growing inside the crown are removed (as seen in the video above).

Already one-year-old trees are shortened tops in order to avoid future darkening of the crown and to stimulate the growth of the branches below, from which the crown will form.

Next spring, in a similar way, you need to form the second tier of the crown skeleton. The center conductor is cut one quarter of its length and the rest completely. Lateral skeletal shoots (maximum - 4) are left to grow at a slope of 45 degrees. Branches with ovaries are directed to grow in a horizontal position. After a year, the procedure is repeated.

To prevent damage to the tree, it is important to remember the following:

• it is necessary to carry out all the manipulations before the start of sap flow;
• the temperature is stably kept above -6-7 degrees Celsius;
• check the weather forecast for the near future to exclude frost.

Autumn pruning

Pear pruning in autumn is carried out every year, except for the year of planting.

The time of the procedures depends on the varietal characteristics of the tree and on the climatic zone of growth. When pruning pears in autumn, it is very important to exclude the possibility of early frosts. places of cuts are more prone to freezing, which can greatly harm the tree. Therefore, the optimal timing is early autumn.

Autumn is the time to remove damaged, diseased, excess branches, which are then burned. Annual shoots are shortened by one third of their length. When pruning pears in the fall, care must be taken to ensure that the young shoots continue the given crown shape.

Pear before and after pruning

Winter pruning

Formative pruning is best done in winter. during this period, the growth directions of all branches are very clearly visible. Damaged and frozen branches are also cut off. This fruit crop has a sufficient level of frost resistance, so manipulations with it can be started when the temperature stops dropping below -15.

In winter, the tree is at rest, all processes are slowed down as much as possible, so all the cuts caused will bring almost no perceptible damage to it. However, heavy pruning is still not recommended.

Summer pruning

Pruning in summer involves minimal intervention. It is carried out only in the case of a large number of actively growing shoots. Pruning of sick, broken shoots, as well as branches that can break off under their own weight, are allowed.

Features of age pruning (young and old trees)

In addition to seasonal, there are also age aspects in pruning pear trees.

Young pears

For procedures with young trees, the following features are characteristic:

• the first cut - after planting, no permanent place of growth to facilitate adaptation and laying the foundation for the shape of the crown;
• in the first fall, no cuts are carried out;
• trees from one year and older are pruned twice a year to increase branching, form the skeleton of the crown and grow fruit branches;
• annual increments are cut by a quarter;
• the second tier of branches is laid when the tree reaches 4 years;
• do not subject the young tree to strong shortening, since because of this, the pear will begin to bear fruit later.

Old pears

Features of pruning old fruit trees:

• optimal terms of work - spring or autumn;
• shortening of shoots is carried out by half or two-thirds of the length, which will help to rejuvenate and slow down aging;
• during the rejuvenating procedures, the volume of fruiting will decrease.

Knowing all the nuances of this process, you can organize the most rational pruning plan with the maximum positive effect.